Modern Maria Clara

Since I mentioned Spanish colonial era clothes yesterday, here is another modern interpretation of the Maria Clara—a style of women's dress now considered formalwear named after the fiancé of the main protagonist of Jose Rizal's novel "Noli Me Tangere." Maria Clara would have loved the elaborate lace and pattern, but I doubt if she would have been comfortable with Eddie Castro's slim fit and starkly graphic colors.

Maria Clara

During my recent trip to The Block in SM City North, I chanced upon an exhibit of Maria Clara gowns as interpreted by young Filipino designers—the mall's way of commemorating the Philippines' Independence Day, which is today. Maria Clara is the heroine in the novel "Noli Me Tangere" written by Philippine national hero Jose Rizal. She epitomizes the traditional Filipina: meek, obedient, loving and God-fearing. The name has also come to refer to the type of clothes worn by Filipinas during the late Spanish colonial era—a mestiza dress combining indigenous and Spanish influences. I know that it's another cheeky way of commemorating this day, but I think that it's quite fitting too since we consider our Independence Day as the day that General Emilio Aguinaldo declared our country's independence from Spain in 1898, rather than the day that Americans granted us our independence. This black and white gown was created by Edwin Uy.

Fringe

There are many lovely modern interpretations of the Maria Clara gown, a Spanish colonial-era style of dress now considered formal Filipiniana attire. Unfortunately, I don't consider this one of them. This would make me feel like I was wearing curtains or a bedspread! I am not going to identify the designer, for obvious reasons.

Old world elegance

The ladies who welcome guests to Sofitel Manila wear elegant Maria Clara gowns.

Manila hemp

During Spanish colonial times, one of the most important export products of the Philippines was marine rope made out of abaca (Musa textilis) fiber, known worldwide then and now as Manila hemp. It proved to be more flexible and resistant to salt water damage than rope made out of hemp, to which it has no relation whatsoever. Classified as a hard fiber, abaca is one of the strongest and most durable natural fibers in the world. Its pulp is used to make specialty papers for tea bags and money. It is also used widely in Philippine handicrafts like furniture, rugs and carpets, clothing and fashion accessories. This Filipiniana dress designed by Jontie Martinez, part of the Maria Clara exhibit I caught at The Block at SM City North EDSA, features a kimona (the blouse) and panuelo (the shawl) made out of abaca. With today's technology, textiles using the fiber can be as delicate and smooth as silk but it was the rough texture of this piece—its 'naturalness,' if you will—that caught my eye. Amazingly and wonderfully, the coarse-looking cloth proved to be very soft and smooth to the touch.

Bejeweled

Another Filipiniana dress from the exhibit that I caught at the SM City North mall. The butterfly sleeves, simpler neckline and contoured bodice identify this as a terno. Traditional dresses such as the terno and Maria Clara are still worn by Filipino women nowadays, but usually only during formal occasions. However, this is also the first time I've seen a terno's sleeves made completely out of beads and golden ornaments. This fantastic creation is the work of David Ocampo.