Food trip

My last post about our short vacation in Baguio City is about the one thing that many Filipinos consider essential to a good vacation, wherever it may be: food. And Baguio has a plethora of places to eat, from tiny eateries along busy roads to elegant and romantic restaurants, any of which might offer regional or international cuisine. So here are some of the places where we ate; but no photos of the food—fortunately or unfortunately depending on your point of view. :)

Our room at Casa Vallejo came with breakfast for two at their Hill Station restaurant everyday. We just had to have dinner there once too; their specialty dishes are all slow-cooked.




PNKY Travel Café is owned by a family that loves to travel. The menu is very international but the recipes have all been tweaked to take advantage of Baguio's wonderfully fresh vegetables and fruits.




Forest House Bistro and Café: warm interiors, elegant place settings, a beautiful mountain view, and absolutely gorgeous salads.




There is nothing fancy about Vizco's Restaurant and Cake Shop, which is located on Session Road, Baguio's central and busiest thoroughfare. Just good, solid and inexpensive pasta and pizza, and lots of cakes. The restaurant itself is small, but they seem to be one of the most popular caterers in the city.




The dishes of Café by the Ruins are chosen to feature some of the best natural ingredients of the region but that does not necessarily mean that the recipes themselves are regional, though some are. It also has a lot of vegetarian options, which I think has to do with the fact that many of its regular clientele are artists and writers.

Oh, the indignity!

Early one morning in the little plaza in front of the Baguio City branch of Barrio Fiesta restaurant.

Big tent

Not that we approve of it, but my friends and I agree that their mall in Baguio City must be the best-looking of all the SM malls that we've seen. The ones in Metro Manila (and in most other Philippine cities) look like gigantic concrete bunkers with a little glass thrown in. We figure it's all because of the full-length balcony and the tent-like roof.

Mountain life

Tam-awan Village in Baguio City is a replica of small Igorot village for people who have not and cannot travel into the interior of the Cordillera mountains.




Some of the huts in Tam-awan Village are not reconstructions though. A few are original Ifugao and Kalinga huts from the 1920s and 1950s which were transported and reconstructed on the site. In keeping with the beliefs of the Cordillera tribes, at least one bulol (rice god—see previous post) guards each of the huts.




The terrain of the lot where Tam-awan Village is located is also faithful to the mountainous locations of Cordillera tribal villages; so is its layout, which means walking up and down narrow mud and stone trails to get from one hut to another. Even with the support provided by intermittent bamboo rails, it is not easy when it has just rained and the short but steep trails are slippery.




Tam-awan Village has also become a center for contemporary Cordillera art, with exhibits all year round and art workshops which, like the village, help foster an understanding and appreciation of the Cordillera culture and heritage. A few of the huts are used as galleries and many artwork are also displayed in the café.




I liked many of the artwork displayed in Tam-awan Village's galleries, but what really caught my eye were these two moss-covered stone bulol in front of the café. I especially like the fertility goddess with a plant growing on her head.

Inculturation | Interpretation

The BenCab Museum just outside Baguio City is a treasure trove of sculptures and carved functional objects from the tribes who call the Cordillera mountains home, and of Filipino contemporary art, many of which feature traditional symbols and elements from those same tribes, which are collectively called the Igorot. One of the most prevalent and powerful symbols among the objects and artwork in the museum is that of the bulol, the rice gods. Despite the difficulties that the highland terrain impose, the lives of the Cordillera communities center around rice cultivation (five of the region's 2000-year-old rice terraces are a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Rituals and sacrifices to the bulol were made to ensure abundant harvests and protection from natural calamities. The antique hardwood bench below has two bulol carved on the backrest. The artwork displayed above it is Leonard Aguinaldo's "Bulol Mandala" (rubbercut, 2002, 91 x 91 cm).

Artist's paradise

Philippine National Artist for Visual Arts Benedicto Cabrera, BenCab, settled in Baguio City in 1986 after living in London since 1969. His current home and studio is located a few kilometers away from the city, in the town of Tuba.




Beside his home is the BenCab Museum, a repository of the artist's varied collections, with one floor dedicated to exhibiting contemporary art by emerging Filipino artists.




BenCab's house and museum are located on the slopes of a ridge, at the bottom of which is a rocky stream, which he has harnessed to naturally water his garden and organic farm, and even to create a pond. Benguet's elevation, the stream and the ridge collude to create a perpetual fog in the area, and the sound of running water is the perfect background for an artist creating and a mortal appreciating.

Baguio redux

It has been three years since my husband and I went up to Baguio City. Located in the Cordillera mountain range, it is known as the Philippines' summer capital because the American colonial government would move there during the summer months to escape Manila's heat. Casa Vallejo was Baguio's first hotel, though originally built as a dormitory for government workers. It survived Japanese bombing during WWII and the devastating 1990 earthquake, and after laying in disrepair for many years, it was finally restored and reborn as a boutique hotel—with a restaurant, bookshop and spa—last year.




The main reason for the vacation was our 15th wedding anniversary on June 1. One of my husband's former students, who lives a few kilometers away in the town of La Trinidad, sent us a beautiful bouquet of roses and lilies which I arranged in a vase I borrowed from the hotel, wrapping it in the sinamay (woven abaca fibers) and ribbon that the flowers came in. They brightened up our room wonderfully and made our stay even more special. Thank you, Sari.

Going home

Finally, just a word about our accommodations and travel. We stayed at the small and old Burnham Hotel just off Session Road, which is Baguio City's busiest commercial avenue. I found it on the web when I found out that The Manor Hotel in Camp John Hay was fully booked. This old place allowed me to book online, unlike the newer hotels that I found. Inside, it doesn't look like a hotel, except for the front desk. It actually felt like staying in the guest room of one's grand aunt, if you know what I mean. It could use more lights though, both in the common living room and the bedrooms—it was a bit too dark to read comfortably.


I think I mentioned at the start of this series that we just took the bus from Manila to Baguio. We took Victory Liner's special, express bus. It's 'special' because each bus only accepts 29 passengers—three people in each of ten rows. The seats are recliners with leg rests, and they're wide and the leg space is roomy! I'm tall, and when I sat down, my knees were nowhere near the back of the seat in front of me. Bliss! But why only 29 passengers when there's space for 30? Now that's the reason why it can be an 'express' bus and not have stopovers. That last space is taken up by a lavatory, very similar to that of airplanes. A great convenience and a faster trip—love it.


And now for a small gripe. I like Victory's bus terminal in Baguio City. It's wide and clean, the waiting area is nowhere near the ticket counter so it doesn't get too crowded, and the second floor has souvenir shops. Why can't their terminals in Metro Manila be like it? The ones here are downright dingy and do not help promote local travel. I wish they'd fix up their Metro Manila bus terminals—and have more special, express buses to other destinations. BAGUIO CITY SERIES #9

Baguio City Hall

Walking back to our hotel after breakfast on the last day of our weekend getaway, this was all I could glimpse of the Baguio City Hall because of the profusion of trees in front of it.


Off to one side of the City Hall was another white building with a green roof—the color combination that I have always associated with Baguio's buildings. I managed to find a sign identifying it as Baguio Central School, and when I searched on the web for it, I learned that it is a public school built in 1923, destroyed during WWII and rebuilt in 1949. It is now considered a heritage school and was renovated in 2004.


Between Baguio City Hall and Burnham Park was a tiny park dedicated to Philippine national hero Dr. Jose P. Rizal. The old man sitting in the shade at the bottom of the monument was totally unmindful of the fact that I was standing there taking pictures. BAGUIO CITY SERIES #8

Lovely restaurants

During our trip to Baguio City, my husband and I made sure that we ate each meal at a different place. No, I'm not going to post photos of all seven because I didn't take pictures of all of them. You've already seen one in the first of my Baguio series: the Baguio Country Club's Verandah, where we had breakfast on the first day. Neither am I going to post food photos—because I forgot to take pictures (again!) before we started eating. I'm only posting two pictures this time, and it's because I love how these restaurants look. Except for a few touches of bamboo, PNKY Café looks more like a European country cottage than a Filipino restaurant with its colorful murals and paintings. I love how the bright colors contrast with the warm wooden furniture. It wasn't our first time to eat there, and we think that their food is really good. The rice that they serve is organic red rice grown locally in the mountains of Benguet. The café is in a small structure beside a house, where PNKY has a bed and breakfast, and a shop with lovely handcrafted furniture and home accessories.


Café by the Ruins is new to us, though it's been around since 1988 and is always in people's lists of places to eat in Baguio. It is across City Hall and the property used to be where the home of Baguio's first American civil governor was located, but the house was destroyed during WWII—hence the name of the restaurant. Many of its regular customers are members of the Baguio Arts Guild and some of their paintings are displayed near the entrance. Our breakfast was very good, but I won't be able to say it's a good restaurant until we get to try their entrées. I have to say, though, that I wasn't impressed with the service—we saw the waiters hanging out at the empty tables reading the newspapers which had just been delivered! But the place—gorgeous! When you're inside the café, you can actually forget that you're in the middle of the very busy city center. BAGUIO CITY SERIES #7

Commerce in Burnham

We're still at Burnham Park in Baguio City. I saw a thriving informal economy at the park and couldn't resist taking photos of the people selling goods and services. You're going to see a few weird angles here. I didn't want the people to notice that I was taking their picture because they might turn away. Hungry? Let's start with some warm taho, perfect in Baguio's cooler weather. It's made of fresh, soft tofu with tiny pearl sago and sweetened with brown sugar syrup.


If your heart can take it, you might like what this guy's selling: chicharon (puffy fried pork skin), hard-boiled quail eggs, and inside the basket, balut (boiled fertilized duck or chicken egg). And just so you know, I have never eaten balut, and never will!


If you like sour foods, you're going to love this snack: burong mangga (fermented green mangoes). Click on the link to get a recipe from our Department of Science and Technology. Using rock salt is a must for this one.


I question the viability of selling ice cream in a cool city, but I guess some people have a higher tolerance for cold than I do. There are three flavors of homemade ice cream inside that cart and you can choose which cone to have it on. There's a bigger wafer cone and the tiny one that's more like a very thin sugar biscuit. I always choose the sweet cone.


When you're done eating and beginning to feel sleepy, or are starting to ache from all the walking you've been doing, then it's time to get a massage. The sign says you can choose between Siatsu (sic) or Swedish.


I'm not one for getting pounded, pulled or kneaded, so I'd prefer this woman's services: a pedicure or manicure while watching the rowboats. This young lady was waiting very patiently while her friend got a pedicure, though they were chatting too so I don't think she minded much.


For those who don't have a camera (not in this group!) but would like a souvenir photo of themselves at Burnham Park, there are photographers who will take your photo with film cameras. They probably have small dark rooms set up very near the park. You meet up after an hour and they'll hand you your prints.


Sunny day and you forgot your sunglasses? Not to worry, you can buy a pair from this young man. I saw a man buying a pair of knock-off Oakleys and the first price quoted by the vendor was 200 Philippine Pesos (less than US$5). Bartering is very much encouraged.


Finally, time to buy some souvenirs. Baguio is well-known for its silver because of Benguet's silver mines and smiths. You don't have to go to the city market to buy some jewelry as I saw several men selling them in the park. As a rule of thumb when bartering, your first offer should be no more than half of the quoted price. BAGUIO CITY SERIES #6

Burnham Park

The famous American architect and urban planner Daniel Hudson Burnham (1846–1912), who designed many of Chicago's older buildings, created the original plan for Baguio City. Unfortunately, his plans were not followed by the leaders of the city, judging by the city center's warren of narrow streets. Thankfully, his plan for a park in front of the City Hall was—providing residents and visitors a place to while away a lazy afternoon. Burnham Park is centered around a man-made lagoon with row boats for hire. I love the trees around the lagoon. I think they're weeping willows, but not having any like them in Metro Manila, I'm not quite sure.


I remember going to Baguio with my family when I was a child and my parents renting bicycles for us at the park. I don't remember if any of the bikes then had sidecars like this one. It's great for families with very young children. (Don't ask me why this kid chose a bike with a sidecar—my guess is he just likes the idea of biking with the sidecar and the umbrella. I mean, wouldn't you, if you were his age?) Now that I'm an adult, I think that renting bicycles there is senseless—you can't take the bike out of that one strip of road so you'll just be biking back and forth and back and forth and back and forth… you get what I mean. You can't even take the bike around the park!


Burnham Park is bisected by several small streets. At the very back of the park is a huge lawn. Sadly, it's not well-maintained and the grass is overgrown. That, and the mud, didn't stop these Sunday morning soccer players from having a game though. I couldn't tell who was playing for which side, but I'm sure they did.


Off to one side of the boating lagoon is a skating rink. Since it was a weekend, the place was full of young teens practicing their skateboarding skills. I don't remember ever seeing this area when I was a kid. I love the pattern of the roof and its supporting frame. PHOTO BY DOGBERRY


This relief sculpture depicts various scenes from the lives of the Igorot. Again, I've uploaded this image in a higher resolution than I normally do so you can click it to enlarge it. There are two men fighting, one tied up like a prisoner, someone playing a nose flute, a couple of people dancing, one carrying firewood to two people roasting a pig, and a few others I couldn't figure out. Sigh. Why did vandals have to choose this piece to put graffiti on?


And finally, here's Daniel Hudson Burnham himself, or rather, a bust of him. I'm so glad he spent some time here in the Philippines—Baguio City might not be as pretty if it weren't for him. BAGUIO CITY SERIES #5

Mines View Park

I guess it really used to be a park, but when you go to Mines View Park in Baguio City now, all you'll see from the street are stalls selling souvenirs and food. If you brave the crowds and go to the viewing deck on the edge of a very steep hill, you will see the site of old copper and gold mines. The mines have long since closed in this particular area—long enough for grass and trees to cover the valley and hillsides again, though you can still see bald spots and trails here and there. Long enough, too, for houses to be built on the old mine site. On a clear day, you can also see the breadth of the Cordillera mountain range. Just our luck to get there on a cloudy day.


The Cordillera region is the ancestral domain of the Igorot, which is made up of six ethnic groups. At the back of the viewing deck, I saw three little old women making a living out of renting Igorot costumes—vests, skirts, headresses, beads, spears and wooden shields—to tourists.


And here is the tour group in all their glorious Igorot finery! BAGUIO CITY SERIES #4

Camp John Hay

One of Baguio City's nicknames is "The City of Pines" because it's the only city in the Philippines where the weather is cool enough for pine trees to thrive. The trees grow everywhere in the city and on the surrounding hills, and one of the best places to walk among them if you're not an adventurer is Camp John Hay.


Camp John Hay was established in 1903 as a rest and recreation facility for the U.S. Armed Forces in the Philippines and was named after U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt's Secretary of State. The property was turned over to the Philippine government in 1991 after the expiration of the two countries' bases agreement. It is now run by a private corporation on a long-term lease and its facilities, which include picnic grounds and a butterfly farm, are open to the public.


The beautiful wood and stone Manor Hotel is also located inside Camp John Hay. This is where my husband and I originally wanted to stay but when I called two weeks before our trip, they were already fully-booked.


A small strip of shops and restaurants a few hundred meters away from the hotel called the Mile Hi Center always reminds me that Camp John Hay was a former U.S. base. There is one Baguio and Benguet souvenir shop and about four restaurants, then the rest are discount stores for U.S. clothing brands. There's even a Commissary (actually the name of the shop)—a grocery that sells only U.S. products. BAGUIO CITY SERIES #3

Baguio cathedral

Saturday afternoon was the only time we experienced rainy weather while we were in Baguio City. After a late lunch, we decided to visit the Baguio cathedral, which I only vaguely remember from childhood because we didn't visit it the last time we were in Baguio several years ago. From the marker in front of the church:

A Catholic mission was established by missionaries of CICM (Congregatio Immaculati Cordis Mariae) from Belgium in 1907. A chapel, dedicated to St. Patrick, was built at the middle part of Session Road. In 1920, the construction of the cathedral by phases was begun on this hill, originally referred to as Kampo by the native Ibalois, who had a settlement here in the latter part of the nineteenth century, and later called Mount Mary by the Catholic mission. It was spearheaded by Fr. Florimond Carlu, CICM, then the parish priest. The cathedral was finally consecrated in 1936 and dedicated to Our Lady of the Atonement (Domina Nostra Adunationis). The cathedral became an evacuation center during World War II and withstood the carpet bombing of Baguio in 1945, thereby saving thousands of lives.

In front of the plaza just before the church was this tableau. On the marker was a verse from the 19th chapter of the Gospel of John:

When Jesus saw his mother, and the disciple whom he loved standing near, he said to his mother, "Woman, behold, your son!" Then he said to the disciple, "Behold, your mother!" And from that hour the disciple took her to his own home.

Though the figure on the left side of the cross is Mary, the mother of Jesus, I don't think that the one on the right is John—it looks more like a woman and I can only guess that it's supposed to be Mary Magdalene. PHOTO BY DOGBERRY


We came just in time for the 5:00pm anticipated Mass, which was perfect because it was my husband's birthday. Just before the priest entered, I took a shot from the pew we were sitting on, down the nave looking towards the altar. You can see the choir lofts here, and that concession to modernity found in many of our churches nowadays: an LCD projector and white screen.


After the Mass and just before the next one started, I went to the front-most pew to take a closer picture of the altar and tabernacle. Because of the ornate details, I decided to upload a higher-resolution image than I usually do. You can actually click on this one to view a larger image. BAGUIO CITY SERIES #2